12/19/2023 0 Comments Wvu mounty bounty balanc3![]() ![]() 1st day sorted the moves half on a rope, 2nd day refined some foot beta and climbed it in 2 overlapping pieces but fell a couple times going for the far right crimp, 3rd day was a known gamble without enough time to recover from day 2 and sure enough ran out of skin and energy after my 1st go as a high point. Whooo! 4 full days of work on this baddy. Gotta find the names of the problem in the corridor and the white face lines! The sit moves obviously go and will add some pump factor. Fantastic movement with crazy double toe-cam drop knees, amazing holds, immaculate stone and the only line on the boulder in a beautiful setting. Send of the original on : This problem is outstanding. I abhor slash grades but probably is legit 10/11, will give it 8A until someone gives it the downgrade -) It now feels complete and is unquestionably my all time favorite with a proper sit start, incredible sequence all by itself and a brilliant block. While not a tight weather window in general, was my last day off before a string of nights that would end in more precipitation. It never seemed to be the right time: how long does the slot take to stop seeping? When am I up for the hike? Am I in good enough shape? Pads? Came out with Kory, Jeremy x2 and Chill but only had enough energy to suss the rad bottom sequence. Half the holds seem to be facing the wrong direction, on an at-first-glance impossibly steep angle, yet the trickery makes it work. Since then, it lingered as a side note in the back of my mind, as the original has always been my all time favorite boulder. YES! Roper had tried the bottom moves yearsssss ago but I dismissed it at the time as both silly and too hard. Sorted the sit moves but way too hot in the sun to attempt further. Sent the middle start on 2/25/21: Barndori chicken. And, acquired a left radial collateral ligament injury. ![]() Bashed the back of my thumb trying to pull my dragon off while standing on top post send. Not a proud line but in the sweet spot of difficulty. The grade is hard for me on this one, hard v8 into hard v8 but with 12 moves to the 15ish moves to the "jug" the power endurance factor seems to bump it a grade for me. Haven't fought this hard at the end of a line for a long time, thought I was going to drop every move. A few goes, each slightly better than the previous, a punt and finally the send burn. rolled out that door at 8a on a sunny but cold Sunday after a brutal 3 day work stretch, and STILL didn't beat the sun which popped around the trees around 0930, furthering my anxiety of quickly abating send conditions. I guess it gave me the boost I needed when they reneged and started to drop the water back down. Thought my window of opportunity was snatched from me by the 2+ inches of rain and I'd have to wait til fall. ![]() Major disappointment when the water came up 55 that's FIFTY FIVE FEET in 3 days including dropping some large drift wood under this boulder. The traverse in from the start of Davey Jones' Locker. Maybe something to try more in the fall or if we get a freak 50 degree day soon. Glad Kenny B got to come out today! And Odin! I think I sorted my beta for Cheshire Cat although never actually did the 2nd or 3rd moves but felt close and was pretty tired. I could see both of these being really specific, high end 11s for small crimp masters, but will defer to Marley's assessment for now. It is once again my style although maybe a bit less so than March Hare. Hard to believe I would be able to do a 12 with one real day of work, even if I'd gotten the 1st two moves (nearly) dialed for March Hare, they are not the crux. Feels maybe a hare (lol) easier than March Hare, a bit less friction dependent although I think overall the styles are similar. ![]() Maybe worth it? Quite a warm day today high in the mid 70s but waited for prime day-time temps at about 730p to take her down. Amazing I got this done although I'm not sure at what expense, another round of finger injuries coming to light as they seem to do each spring. ![]()
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